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SPAIN
Spain is located on the
Iberian Peninsula, the southwestern end of Europe. It is a land of towering peaks, endless
beaches, fertile landscapes, and high, dry plains. Over the centuries, Spain endured invasions
from the Phoenicians, Greeks, Celts, Carthaginians, Romans, and Visigoths
before the Moors conquered it all in 711 A.D. Seven hundred years later,
the Moors were driven out, and Roman Catholicism was established as the state
religion. Today, Spain’s checkered
history gives rise to a colorful culture steeped in many different
traditions.
BARCELONA
Barcelona, on the Mediterranean coast, is the second-largest city in Spain. Legend has it that
the city was founded by the mythological Hercules, but historians think the
ancient Carthaginians were more likely here around the third century BC. Since that time, the city has flown many
flags – Roman, Visigoth, French, and Catalonian. It is a fascinating city whose distinct history and regional culture set
it apart from the rest of Spain. Two
major events have shaped modern-day Barcelona.
The first was the 1975 death of General Francisco Franco, ending four
decades of systematic and often brutal attempts to eradicate the Catalan
language and culture. The second came with the 1992 Summer Olympics, which
transformed Barcelona from a drab industrial city to a gleaming new
metropolis. Medieval facades were
restored, and tourists flock to the city to visit its historic UNESCO sites and
outstanding museums.
The Barrio Gotica (Gothic
Quarter), a maze of narrow streets and squares, built within the old Roman
walls when Barcelona was one of the richest and most important trading cities on
the Mediterranean. Some of the
structures here date as far back as the first Roman settlements of
Barcelona. Centurions and garrisons have
been replaced by quaint shops, hidden courtyards, and strolling street
musicians. The 13th- to 15th-century
structures that remain here include government buildings, guild houses, and
churches.
The
Church of Santa Anna is a 12th-century Gothic-style church. Its cloisters date from the 15th-century when the convent of Santa Eulalia was built. 
The Church of Santa Maria del Pi
stands watch over a small plaza, characterized by a single pine from which it
takes its name. This square is a flat space between two streams and the old
Roman road.
Placa
Nova dates back to 1358, when it was the site of the city’s hay market. Even then, locals could see remnants of a
Roman aqueduct and circular towers flanking the city gate.
The
Cathedral of Barcelona (the Cathedral of the Holy Cross and Saint
Eulalia) was built between the 13th and 15th century,
although the main façade was done in 1898.
The first building on this site was a Roman temple, followed by a mosque
and then a Christian church before the cathedral was finally built. This symbol of Barcelona’s historic past
houses a wealth of treasures inside, while its tranquil 14th century
cloister is planted with palms, orange trees and magnolias. Thirteen white geese are kept here because
St. Eulalia (Barcelona’s patron saint) was 13 years old when she was martyred.
Placa
Sant Felip Neri is a shaded square that
serves as playground for elementary school and is home to church of Sant Felip
Neri, which Gaudi attended. The facade of the church was damaged in a bombing raid during the Spanish Civil War;
forty-two people, including many children, were killed.
La
Ramblas, Barcelona’s most famous street, is a mile-long stone-paved promenade
running from the plaza to the waterfront.
It was once a riverbed, but now is a shady street lined with shops and
hotels. Along the way, there is much to
see, not to mention people-watching. It
was raining, but that didn’t slow us down – fun people-watching and fun looking
at the sidewalk – here is a design by Salvador Dali, one of many contributions
to public art in his hometown.
The Plaza de Catalonia, located on the
border between the old city and the new, is the heart of the city. It is an impressive square, with lots of
monuments and sculptures above and the subway and shopping arcade beneath.
The Roman Necropolis was unearthed during a
public works project. This important
burial site reveals how the Romans built their cemeteries outside the city
walls, next to the road, with tombs in a line.
Mercat
de la Boqueria is one of Europe’s largest and most famous food
markets. The grand iron entrance leads
into a world of food crowded with locals and tourists and alive with scents and
colors: flowers, fish, ham, fresh fruits
and vegetables. Foods of all varieties
and nationalities - all under one roof!
The Teatro
Principal de Barcelona (Main Theater of Barcelona) is the oldest in the
city and one of the oldest in Spain.
The L’Eixample is the large
section of Barcelona that grew beyond the old medieval walls. Rather than leveling the Old
Town, city leaders engaged a socialist engineer to draw up plans for
Barcelona’s New City. The modernistas were the neighborhood’s
earliest architects, filling blocks with their fantasies, including many works
by Antonio Gaudi, the avant-garde
architect, whose works in Barcelona
have been recognized collectively as a UNESCO World Heritage Site. The man whose name inspired the English word “gaudy” was a controversial
figure in the art world. Some love his
work and think it daring and fabulous; others find it tacky and overdone. Either way, Gaudi and his work have cast an
immeasurable shadow over Barcelona for the past century.
Gaudi’s Sagrada Familia (Holy Family) Cathedral is the city’s most famous
landmark, a miracle in progress – 130 years and counting. Gaudi worked on this structure for over 40
years (until his death); he envisioned a vast cathedral, with facades to show
the birth, death and resurrection of Christ; three entrances representing
faith, hope, and love; and 18 towers representing the Twelve Apostles, the Four
Evangelists, the Virgin and the Christ. Its
perforated spires are visible from many points around the city; up close there
are intricately carved facades and molten-rock textures. Gaudi died in 1926, and the plan is to finish
the building by 2026, the 100th anniversary of his death.
Sagrada Familia School was built
by Gaudi to serve the educational needs of the children of the workers at the
cathedral, as well as other children of the neighborhood. It contains three classrooms, a hall and a
chapel.
Other
Gaudi UNESCO World Heritage Sites: These all attest to his apparent
rejection of the straight line as a design element, and because they cannot be
moved from Barcelona, they are more an integral part of the city’s personality
than the paintings of other artists which can be seen in museums all over the
world. Sites are listed in order of their
start date:
Palau Guell (or Palacio Guell) is an
impressive mansion, Gaudi’s first commission, built for Eusebi Guell, who
became the architect’s most committed patron.
This grand townhouse displays Gaudi’s trademark ingenuity with light and
curving forms. In this house, Gaudi
designed everything, including the stained glass, furniture, lighting,
wrought-iron decorations, fireplace and twenty chimneys on the roof.
Even more fanciful is
the 37-acre Guell Park, overlooking
the city. Eusebio Guell was a wealthy patron who wanted Gaudi to develop a landscaped
residential area for his family. At the park entrance, there are two pavilions
that formed the porter’s lodge of
the estate. Both have very unusual roofs; one serves as a bookshop, the other is
the Casa Museo Gaudi, which contains
furniture designed by Gaudi and other personal effects of the architect.
Just inside the gate, there is a large
staircase with a dragon fountain made of broken bits of ceramic tile.
The stairs lead to the Salon of the Hundred
Columns; there are only 86 columns, but it’s still pretty impressive.
On top of the salon is a public square with a
long undulating bench in the form of a sea serpent.
At the top of the park is the Closed Chapel, which has a large
cross on top of it.
Only the park's grand entrance, the plaza, the paths and the steps were completed. Gaudi’s creation may be
unfinished, but it is delightful in its imaginative and whimsical
atmosphere - even on a rainy day.
La Pedrera is a spectacular apartment
building, originally known as Casa Mila, but soon nicknamed “La Pedrera” (the
stone quarry) because its outside walls were made of stone and appear
unfinished. The façade is undulating and
has large windows with elaborate wrought-iron railings. The roof terrace has unusually-shaped chimney
stacks called scare-witches.
This stretch of the Passeig de Gracia is known as the Block of Discord. The area is noted for having buildings by four of Barcelona’s most important art nouveau architects: Gaudi, Montaner, Cadafalch, and Sagnier. Even the sidewalks are a bit wild and wonderful; they are prefect for this neighborhood.
The architect Montaner designed two other UNESCO World Heritage Sites in
Barcelona. We visited one of these: the Palau
de la Musica Catalana (Palace of Catalan Music), built between 1905 and
1908. The building is considered an
architectural jewel of Catalan Art Nouveau, designed around a central metal
structure covered in glass. This
exploits natural light to create a magical music box which brings together all
the decorative arts: sculpture, mosaic, stained glass and ironwork. 
Montjuic (Jewish
Mountain), the hill overlooking the city and the harbor, was the location of
the 1929 Barcelona Universal Exposition and the 1992 Olympic Games. The largest green space in the city is home to several museums and educational
facilities. The Castell de Montjuic is perched on the hillside facing the sea; this
fortress dates back to 1640 and now houses a military museum. Great views of the city, even in the rain.
Nearby is Las Arenas, aka the
Bullring Mall. This grand Neo-Moorish Modernista placa de
toros functioned as an arena for bullfights from 1900 to 1977, and then
re-opened as a mall.
Santa
Maria de Monserrat is a Benedictine abbey and basilica located in the
rugged Monserrat mountains outside Barcelona.
It is the religious center of Catalonia and one of the most important
pilgrimage sites in all of Spain.
Thousands travel here every year to see and touch the medieval statue of
La Moreneta, the Black Virgin. The
statue was found in a mountain cave in the 12th century and is said
to have been carved by the hands of Saint Luke himself. The postcard picture below shows what we might have seen if the sun had been shining; it rained during our entire visit.
MADRID
Madrid is the highest capital city in Europe, one of the few not settled
by the Romans. It became Spain’s capital
in 1561, when Philip II moved his court from Toledo to the city in which he was
born. Located at the center of the
Iberian Peninsula, its clear blue skies gave rise to the phrase “Madrid is the
next thing to heaven.”
HISTORIC
CITY CENTER
The square is a popular spot for mimes. Here are a couple who do interesting things if you give them a few coins.
More interesting was the café that made churros, a fried-dough pastry that is beyond delicious when dipped in thick hot chocolate. We watched the churros being made and then ate some – hot and very tasty. Easy to understand why this is one of the most favorite snacks in Spain.
Next to
the plaza is the Mercado San Miguel (San
Miguel Market). It is an old market,
recently restored, covered and converted into a gourmet center. It is a lively area, with lots of people on
the streets and plenty of places to spend time (and money) –art galleries,
cafes, shops and tapas bars. Lots of
good things to eat, including 1001 ways to serve olives
We were lucky to be there
just in time for the changing of the guard.
Soldiers on horseback and members of the Royal Guard are relieved of their positions. Lots of pomp and circumstance, fun to
watch.
This park also offers a nice view of some of Madrid’s most important buildings (left to right): the Royal Palace, the cathedral, and St. Francis Seminary.
Madrid’s Golden Triangle of Art
is an extraordinary concentrations of museums:
the Prado Museum, the Reina-Sophia Museum, and the Thyssen-Bornemisza
Museum, in additional to another half-dozen smaller institutions. We visited the Prado and the Reina-Sophia.
The Monasterio de El Escorial (the Monastery of Saint Lawrence the Royal of El Escorial) is in the mountains northwest of Madrid. This massive religious complex is one of the most impressive monuments in all of Spain, giving true insight into the extraordinary wealth and power of the 16th-century Spanish monarchy. El Escorial was built by King Philip II in 1584 to thank God for a military victory over the French - he came up with the idea of building a monastery that would also serve as a royal palace and burial place. The main structure is 670 feet long and has over 1200 doors, 2600 windows and 16 courtyards. This postcard picture gives an idea of the hugeness of the place.
TOLEDO
The historic city of Toledo
is one of the oldest and proudest cities in Spain, recognized as a UNESCO World
Heritage Site in 1986. Cervantes called
Toledo the “Glory of Spain,” but it is better known as the “City of Three
Cultures,” where Muslims, Jews and Christians once rubbed shoulders –
peacefully. It sits on a plateau
surrounded on three sides by the River Tagus, a natural fortress in the center
of the Iberian Peninsula. It was a
logical choice for the capital of Spain, but it lost its political status to
Madrid in the 1500s. Toledo is known as
the country’s religious center and the home of the master painter El Greco.
Toledo’s Cathedral (the Cathedral of Saint Mary) dominates the
skyline, reflecting the city’s historical significance as the heart of Catholic
Spain. This location has been a center
of worship since the 5th century AD; the cathedral stands on the
site of the Great Mosque of Toledo, which itself had replaced a Visigoth church.
Built from 1226 to 1493, the long construction process is reflected in the
cathedral’s variety of styles. Today the
Toledo Cathedral is ranked among the greatest Gothic structures in Europe.
GRANADA
Granada is a
mountain town, the last Moorish stronghold to surrender to Ferdinand and
Isabella. Legend says that the defeated
Moorish king, as he rode off towards exile, paused to look back at his fair
city and burst into tears. Today it is a city of sun-bleached streets and
parched earth, interspersed with soothing patches of green. Granada sprawls over two main hills and is
crossed by two rivers. It is a city of
folklore and romance, and … the Alhambra is here.
When the Moors crossed the Strait of Gibraltar in 711 A.D., they claimed
a hillside city that had been founded by the Romans and later settled by the
Visigoths, yet whose history dates to pre-historic times. The Moors chose Granada as the site to build
their own mighty citadel, one of the greatest architectural wonders of all
time: the Alhambra.
Originally built for defensive purposes, it
was transformed into a pleasure palace for Arab princes and their harems. Here Muslim architecture in Spain reached its
peak, creating the most refined example of Islamic art anywhere in the world
and the most enduring symbol of 800 years of Moorish rule in Spain. The Alhambra was named a UNESCO World Heritage
Site in 1984.
The Palacios Nazaríes is the
central palace complex, the pinnacle of the Alhambra’s design. Entrance is through the 14th-century Mexuar, thought to be an antechamber for those awaiting
audiences with the emir. Two centuries later, it was converted to a chapel,
with a prayer room at the far end.
The Sala de los Abencerrajes is said to be
the place where the sultan had traitors killed, and the rusty stains in the
fountain are the victims’ indelible blood. Far more eye-catching are the
multicolored tiles on the walls and the great octagonal ceiling.
The Sala
de Dos Hermanas (Hall of Two Sisters) is adorned with carvings of local flora and calligraphy. The carved wood screens in the upper
level enabled women (and others) to peer down from hallways above without being
seen.
The tile-trimmed Mirador de Lindaraja
(Lindaraja lookout) was a lovely place for palace residents to look onto the
garden below. Traces of paint still cling to the window frames, and a few
panels of colored glass set in the wood ceiling cast a warm glow.
From the Sala de Dos Hermanas, a passageway leads into rooms built for Carlos I in the 1520s and later used by Washington Irving (who wrote Tales of the Alhambra). From here stairs descend to the Patio de la Lindaraja.
The hulking Palacio de Carlos V (Palace of Charles V) clashes spectacularly with its surroundings. In a different setting its merits might be more readily appreciated – it is the only example in Spain of the Renaissance-era circle-in-a-square ground plan; it was designed by an architect who studied under Michelangelo. The palace was the home of the Holy Roman Emperor, Carlos V, who didn’t think the Nasrid Palace was grand enough for him.
The Generalife, a UNESCO World Heritage site, was built as a retreat for the sultans and their wives. It is a soothing arrangement of pathways, patios, pools, fountains, tall trees and, in season, flowers of every imaginable hue. The topiary gardens on the south end were once grazing land for the royal herds.
OLD TOWN GRANADA
Walking on a Sunday afternoon, we encountered lots of families celebrating first communion – cute kids dressed all in white.
SALINAS
Salinas was also the location for a home-hosted lunch with local
families. Six of our group were assigned
to the home of a charming little woman named Encarna. She had a colorful table set for us, and she
kept bringing food and drink until we were just about senseless. That’s probably why we don’t remember what we
had to eat, but we do remember that it was some of the best food we had in all
of Spain. Encarna seemed to like the
hostess gifts we brought, especially the SC apron from Connie!
CORDOBA
Cordoba was
founded as a Roman colony, but its heyday came under the rule of the Moors in
the 8th century AD. It was
the biggest city in Western Europe, renowned as the ‘Jewel of the World,’ for
its dazzling mosques, libraries, observatories, aqueducts, and highly skilled
artisans in leather, metal, textiles and tilework. All religions were tolerated, and the most
sophisticated Greeks, Romans, Jews, Hindus and pagans of the time flocked to
this great city to learn from its masters. Cordoba’s light began to dim in the
years leading up to 1492, when Ferdinand and Isabella kicked out the Moors and
ushered in the Inquisition.
The labyrinthine historic center of Cordoba has been named a UNESCO
World Heritage Site. It is a maze, but
if you wander far enough, the eastern part of the old city has few tourists and
even fewer souvenir shops. Residents
keep their balconies open and one can view Andalusian-style patios full of
plants and flowers. 
The gigantic Mezquita (Great Mosque) is the city’s centerpiece and the
third-largest mosque in the world. Founded in 785 AD, the exterior of the
mosque is not overly impressive, a large walled compound with a minaret. Inside is another matter. Known
as the “Forest of a Thousand Arches, its 856 arches are supported by columns of
jasper, onyx, marble and granite support double arches, one horseshoed and one
semi-circular, mirroring the Dome of the Rock, a shrine in Old Jerusalem.
In the middle of it all, there sits a full-sized Catholic cathedral, the Cathedral de Nuestra Senora de La Ascuncion. The Mezquita is an architectural anomaly and one of the only places in the world where you can attend mass in a mosque.
The Puerta de Almodovar serves as one of the main gateways to Cordoba's renowned Jewish district. Originally built by the Moors, it was part of a wall that helped to protect the Old Town. On the inside awaits a district that, much like the arch and outer walls, seems like it is largely stuck in history. The fellow on the bench didn't speak English, but his sign language was pretty clear - he wanted a kiss in return for taking his photo.
The Synagogue of Cordoba, built in 1350, is one of the few surviving medieval synagogues in Spain. After the Jews were expelled from Spain in 1492, the synagogue was turned into a hospital and later into a Catholic chapel. Today it is a museum, an important historical monument and a treasured symbol for Spain's Jewish communities. The outside of the synagogue is quite plain, but the interior features exquisite Mudéjar stucco. A Hebrew inscription indicates the date of the synagogue's construction. In the east wall is the ark where the sacred scrolls of the Pentateuch were kept.
Leaving Granada, we (at last) had
a nice look at the snow-covered Sierra Nevada Mountains, as well as the iconic bull silhouette, one-time advertisement for a brand of Spanish brandy.
TORREMOLINOS
Torremolinos first became popular in 1498 when the Catholic Kings and
their troops stopped here during the siege of Malaga. The town later became a
busy fishing port. Over the years, the
town has evolved as a resort, noted for its clean sandy beaches, and wide
choice of hotels, restaurants and entertainment activities.
Along the way, there are all manner of sand sculptures, with their creators sitting nearby hoping you will toss them a euro for the privilege of taking a photo. Some are worth it!
The busy Calle
San Miguel is the nerve center of town and an open-air shopping
center. At the Plaza San Miguel is a
small church a quiet spot in a very busy shopping district.
MALAGA
The Alcazar was the palace-fortress of Malaga’s Muslim governors for over 700 years. It was built around 1040 AD, with numerous later additions and reconstructions.
We spent a fair amount of time wandering
around town – and found it to be a good place for that activity, in spite of
the fact that it was a Sunday afternoon and there were gazillions of people
(tourists and townies) out for a stroll.
There are plenty of shops, sidewalk cafes, street performers, and
mimes. Never a dull moment.
RONDA
Ronda is tucked
high in the hills up a winding road from the Costa del Sol. It is one of the oldest cities in Spain,
nicknamed the “Dream City,” and filled with palatial houses, and a rich Arabic
and Christian heritage. It was in Ronda
that bull-fighting first began; bullfights are still held in its colorful
bullring.
Ronda’s
setting makes it stand out from the many other villages of Andalusia; it sits
on a lofty promontory overlooking El Tajo, a spectacular 360-foot deep river
gorge, spanned by a high-arched 18th-century stone bridge. The bridge connecting the two halves of the
city is an amazing architectural feat built between 1755 and 1793 and spanning
a dizzying drop over the gorge.
We were far more interested in the rotating cabinet and the voice of the faceless nun behind it. Our guide knew the routine – he placed our order for goodies and in a few minutes, the cabinet spun around to reveal a bag full of cookies. Not just any old cookies – some of the best ever.
First in the arena, we watched the toreadors-in-training. We were reminded that these guys are truly athletes – running, jumping, lifting weights. They got a real workout in the warm sunshine.
One of the guys working
out was the owner of the bull ranch, as well as an accomplished professional
bull fighter. His name was Rafael Tejada; in spite of his obvious
exhaustion, he spent some time with us answering questions and posing for
pictures.
We took a
tour around the property to see the different types of facilities for the care
and management of stock cows, horses, calves, young bulls, and finally, the fighting
bulls. One interesting fact about the bulls - they never enter an arena until they enter to fight and die. Attempts to 'recycle' bulls have failed because the animals are smart enough to learn that the cape is not a threat - they go straight for the toreador.
SEVILLE
Seville is
located on the banks of the Gaudalquivir River.
Its wealth of monuments and magnificent buildings attest to its long
history – it was settled by the Romans and two of Rome’s great emperors (Trajan
and Hadrian) were born here. Seville is the
quintessential image of Spain:
whitewashed streets, Moorish architecture, flamenco dresses, orange
trees and proud horsemen. This is the
fourth-largest city in Spain, the seat of a university founded early in the 16th century, an important industrial city, and the center of a rich agricultural
region. Seville became rich and populous during the
age of exploration, as Ferdinand and Isabella decreed that only ships traveling
to and from Seville could engage in trade with the New World.
Old
Town Seville is relatively small and wonderfully walkable. The streets are narrow, twisting, and
confusing, but fun to wander. We had far
too little time here as too much of our sight-seeing was confined to the cathedral
and a park near our hotel.
The Real Alcazar (Royal Alcazar) is an
elegant royal palace built in the 10th century in the Mudejar style of architecture, which was
developed in Spain by Christianized Moors.
Mudejar features distinctly Islamic geometry in its elaborate tilework,
brickwork, wood carving, plasterwork and ornamental metals. The Alcazar is a labyrinth of courtyards,
delicate stucco, tiled rooms and terraces, coffered chambers, fountains and
arched patios. The palace complex, which
is one of the oldest in Europe, has been named a UNESCO World Heritage Site.
The park was the site of the Expo
29, which had the Plaza de Espana as
its centerpiece. Plaza de España is a
semi-circular brick building, Renaissance/neo-Moorish in style, with a tower at
either end. In front of the building a canal crossed by four bridges, and in
the center of it all is the Plaza itself.
Spaniards consider Seville the home of flamenco, which UNESCO has added to its list of Masterpieces of the Oral and Intangible Heritage of the World. Flamenco is a synthesis of dance and music, performed to express joy and sorrow about everyday life, religion and work. Its deeper meaning may be hard for foreigners to grasp, but the guitar music, the distinctive costumes, the rhythmic hand-clapping, and the click of castanets are easily enjoyed by all. And enjoy it we did – at an evening performance at El Patio Sevillano.
PORTUGAL
Portugal is located on the southwest corner of the Iberian Peninsula,
surrounded by Spain on two sides and the Atlantic Ocean on the other sides. An independent kingdom since 1143, it is one
of the oldest nations in Europe. Throughout the 15th and 16th
centuries, Portugal focused on exploration, trade and colonization. After
political unrest and revolutions against the monarchy in the 1800s, the 1900s
began with military rule but ended with establishment of democracy and
membership in the European Union. Today
Portugal has a feel of faded grandeur, the quiet remains of its far-flung
colonial past – enticing architecture and magnificent landscape. We loved it!
ALGARVE
We enjoyed spotting stork nests all
along the roadsides – it seemed that every third or fourth light pole was
crowned with a huge nest. Stork nests
may be used for many years and can be very large. Some have been known to grow to over six feet
in diameter and about ten feet in depth.
And … it was springtime – many of the nests had babies, no
doubt begging for a bite to eat.
Cork harvesting is done entirely without machinery, being dependent
solely on human labor. Usually five people are required to harvest the tree's
bark, using a small ax. The process requires incredible skill to remove the bark without harming the tree.
As we traveled, we were endlessly amazed at the array of products
crafted from cork – wallets, pocketbooks, shoes, hats. You name, somebody makes it. Here are a few pictures from shops selling
cork products (mostly to tourists):
Six generations have lived on this ranch; today the family matriarch
(Maria) runs the business with her 5 children.
They gain some additional income by feeding hungry tourists (one of the
best meals on the whole trip), selling handmade embroidered items, and showing
off their magnificent horses (the rider is one of the sons, no not Zorro).
Corks, storks and horses - all were wonderful to see, but ... take a look at these wildflowers! This place was a real showcase for colorful wildflowers - they were everywhere and they were magnificent.
LISBON
Lisbon, the old
gateway to the New World, is a city, with a great past and a promising future,
thanks to Portugal’s entry into the European Union. It is one of Europe’s smallest, sunniest and
most beautiful capitals, with a jumble of ancient neighborhoods leading down to
the Tagus River.
Built on seven hills, Lisbon, known as the “White City,” has been
Portugal’s capital since the 13th century. The area was first settled by Phoenicians in
the 12th century BC; they were followed by Carthaginians, Romans,
several Germanic tribes, and Visigoths.
The Moors captured Lisbon in 714 AD and held it for the next 400 years.
Portuguese explorer began colonizing parts of Africa and Asia at the
beginning of the 15th century.
Vasco da Gama set sail for India from Lisbon in 1497, and the city
became a center for voyages of discovery throughout the Orient and the New
World for the next 300 years. The
immense riches brought back by these explorer ushered in an era of building and
expansion reflected in many elegant palatial buildings around town. Much
of the city was destroyed or damaged in the 1775 earthquake, but today it is
hard to find signs of that long-ago disaster.
Castelo Sao Jorge (St.
George’s Castle) stands on the city’s highest hill, the site of the earliest
settlement of Lisbon. Fortified by the
Romans, Visigoths and Moors, it was captured by the Christian Crusaders – a
turning point in evicting the Moors from Portugal. The Moorish battlements still stand, and
recent restorations here have added terraces, pools, and fountains. These pictures (day and night) were taken
from our hotel balcony. Nice.
At one end of the square, an arch leads to the Rua Augusta, a pedestrian street that leads all the way to the river. It is a grand place for a stroll – lots of shops, cafés, mimes and people-watching.
Nearby, the Casa dos Bicos (House of Spikes) is a unique structure with its
façade covered with over a thousand “bicos” (spikes), stones in the shape of
diamonds. Built in the 16th century,
it is said to be inspired by other such houses in Venice. Avenida da Liberdade (Liberty Avenue) connects old town with the upper new town. Nice walk down beautiful sidewalks covered with fanciful designs. Portugal has the best sidewalks in the world!
Igreja de São Roque (St.
Roch Church) was the earliest
Jesuit church in Portugal and one of the first Jesuit churches anywhere. There was a wedding underway when we arrived,
so we just took a quick peek at the interior.
Cervejaria da Trindade is the oldest beer hall in Lisbon, in a building that was once a monastery. It’s worth visiting to look at its 19th century tiles.
Igreja de São Domingos (St. Domingo Church) was dedicated in 1241 and was, at one time, the largest church in Lisbon. It hosted Portuguese royal weddings and was once the home of the Inquisition. The church was damaged by the 1531 Lisbon earthquake and almost completely destroyed in the 1755 earthquake. A fire in 1959 completely gutted the rebuilt church and killed two firefighters. Finally, the interior was restored and the church reopened in 1994, with many signs of the fire still in place.
Also near the church is a little shop called “A Ginjinha.” We had no idea what that meant, but our guide saw that as an opportunity for learning and discovery. It turns out that Ginjinha is the local name for Morello cherry liqueur. Morello is a sour cherry and is thought the Portuguese have been drinking liqueur made with it since the 17th-century.
The traditional way to drink this stuff is to belly up to the bar
and have a shot, but Ramon bought us a whole bottle to share. He poured and we drank – right in the middle
of the square, in front of the church.
What a country.
Street performers were fairly common in every city
we visited, but there was one that really drew our
attention – a young woman picking out a tune on a ukulele. Our guide launched into a lengthy discussion
about this instrument, which he called a cavaquinho
and which he claimed originated in Portugal.
Hmmm. Just couldn’t keep my mouth
shut – I told him that it sure did look like a ukulele, and I asked the
musician if I could give it a try. She
looked a bit unsure about handing her livelihood over to a crazy tourist, but
she gave it to me and I launched into a rousing version of “Five Foot
Two.” My performance was so impressive
that LaDene tossed me a euro for my efforts!
Just another day in Lisbon, which is now one of my favorite cities …
In the nearby town of Belem, the Mosterio dos Jeronimos (Jeronimos
Monastery) is a UNESCO World Heritage Site that stands on the site of an
earlier chapel that was visited by Portuguese explorers before their great
voyages. Construction on the present
church began in 1501 to celebrate Vasco da Gama’s successful voyage to the
Indies. It took almost 100 years to
complete; the resulting church and adjoining cloisters are a grand mix of
Gothic, Renaissance, and Manueline styles.
The soaring interior contains the simple tomb of Vasco da Gama, who
silently tolerates the hordes of tourists.
The Padrão dos Descobrimentos (Monument to the Discoveries) is an eye-catching white monument
rising from the water’s edge at Belem to commemorate Portugal’s great exploders. It was erected in 1960 to mark the 500th anniversary of the death of Henry the Navigator and is shaped to represent a
ship’s prow and sails.
Also on
the river is the Monumento Christo Rei
(National Sanctuary of Christ the
King), an impressive (361 feet tall) monument overlooking Lisbon from
the other side of the Tagus River. This
monument was built in 1959 as a token of thanks to God having sheltered
Portugal during the Second World War.
The statue itself, Jesus with his wide stretched arms, was designed by
Francisco Franco de Sousa, who was inspired by the similar monument in Rio de
Janeiro.
Sintra is a
charming town set in lush and mountainous country further northwest of Lisbon,
a peaceful and historic contrast to the capital city. The cultural landscape of Sintra has been
named a UNESCO World Heritage Site in recognition of its role in the
development of landscape architecture throughout Europe. In the 19th century. Ferdinand II turned a
ruined monastery into a castle and created a beautiful park around it. Other fine dwellings, built along the same lines in the
surrounding area, created
a unique combination of parks and gardens.
For more than 500 years, Sintra was the summer resort of Portuguese
kings, a legacy that is apparent in the town’s two most astounding palaces.
These tiles still
constitute a major aspect of Portuguese architecture as they are applied on walls, floors and even ceilings. Many azulejos chronicle major historical and
cultural aspects of Portuguese history.
MADIERA
The Madeira Islands are an autonomous region of Portugal, located in the
Atlantic Ocean, southwest of Lisbon and directly west of Morocco. Historically this was an important
agricultural area, growing fennel, wheat, sugarcane. Today the islands are a popular year-round
resort and cruise ship port, famed worldwide for Madeira wine, embroidery,
wicker, near perfect weather, and striking scenery with beautiful flowers.
Madeira Island is the largest island of the group; it is 35 miles long and about 13 miles wide. It is a rugged,
mountainous rock, famed for its elevated sea cliffs. Funchal, the capital city, has a population
of 100,000 inhabitants. From its natural harbor, Funchal covers the slopes of
an ancient volcano, with many of its narrow streets reminiscent of those in
Venice.
The city is nestled in a natural amphitheater, facing the blue Atlantic with a backdrop of dramatic mountains. Located in the south of Madeira, on its sunniest coast amidst banana plantations and wonderful gardens in the shelter of the verdant mountains, it is an extremely lush, green and relaxed city.
Funchal is a modern, cosmopolitan city, well known for its year-round warm climate – very different today from its fennel-growing, pirate days of old. The city’s history goes back over 5 centuries when early Portuguese settlers colonized the coast of a bright and sunny bay where fennel (funcho) grew in abundance, giving its name to the new town.
Our hotel was quite spectacularly located on a cliff overlooking the Atlantic Ocean. Here is the view from our room – not too shabby.
Zona Velha (Old Town) is the city's oldest neighborhood and is where some of the earliest streets and buildings are located. An imaginative urban regeneration initiative has seen the doors in Rua Santa Marta and other nearby roads painted by Portuguese and international artists as part of the Arte Portas Abertas (Art Open Doors) project. The many different and striking designs have effectively created an open-air gallery, where folks can wander the area at leisure and admire this extraordinary urban canvas.
School kids were on the loose – it must have been field trip season. No matter why, there were lots of cute kids out and about town.
The Presidential Gardens are the public part of the home of the president of the regional government. It has nice views of the harbor, massive trees, palms and many specimens of indigenous and introduced plants and birds.
Western Madeira is known for its agriculture, fishing villages, volcanic rock pools, waterfalls, and poncha.
Bananas are the #1 agricultural
product in Madeira and we saw plenty of them.
We also learned that the banana plant is the world’s largest herb, and
that it takes 10 months to grow one bunch of bananas, at which time the plant
dies. Plastic bags are used to speed the
ripening process.
Terraced farms are the norm here; every hillside seems to be covered with a patchwork of farm plots – fruits and vegetables galore. And a few cows, most of whom thought they owned the road.
Heading up
into the mountains, we saw winding roads and beautiful views, in spite of the cloudy day. Lots of tiny villages along the way.
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We had lunch at the Orca Restaurant, which had views of the
pools as well as good food and wine.
Here we celebrated Cheryl’s birthday – one she will remember for a long
time.
Eastern Madeira is known for its high peaks, rugged coast, history, traditions, and poncha.
Also at Ribeiro Frio is John’s Poncha Shop. John claims he makes the best poncho on Madeira Island; he may be right! (My cheerful drinking partner was our driver/guide for the day.)
Machico
is an interesting little town – the landing
point of the Portuguese explorers who discovered Madeira. It’s yet another nice place to wander
around.
And here we found another example of the Art Open Doors project that we first encountered in Funchal.
Machico’s beach boasts genuine Sahara Desert sand that was hauled in to make it suitable for swimming and sunbathing. Here are the before and after pictures.
And here we found another example of the Art Open Doors project that we first encountered in Funchal.
Machico’s beach boasts genuine Sahara Desert sand that was hauled in to make it suitable for swimming and sunbathing. Here are the before and after pictures.
TANGIER,
MOROCCO
Tangier is situated on the Strait of Gibraltar, just a twenty mile ferry
ride from the coast of Spain. Tangier is dirty and chaotic, but it is also
wonderfully colorful and pulsing with life.
There is much to see and do within the old city walls. Snaking streets,
traditional Islamic architecture, and quirky shops full of knickknacks are irresistible.
Wandering the narrow streets,
Admiring unusual architecture,
Peeking into mysterious shops, and
Last, but not least, people watching.
